Incident wave

A wave moving landward.

Glossary of Terms

The portion of the littoral system that is frequently (daily or at least seasonally) subject to transport by wind, waves, and currents.

Reflection

The process by which the energy of the wave is returned seaward.

Undertow

A current below water surface flowing seaward; the receding water below the surface from waves breaking on a shelving beach. Actually undertow is largely mythical. As the backwash of each wave flows down the beach, a current is formed which flows seaward. However, it is a periodic phenomenon. The most common phenomena expressed as "undertow" are actually rip currents.

Wave Rose

Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.

Anoxic

Refers to an environment that contains little or no dissolved oxygen and hence little or no benthic marine life. These conditions often arise in deep water locations where physical circulation of seawater is limited.

Gabion

Steel wire-mesh basket to hold stones or crushed rock to protect a bank or bottom from erosion. Structures composed of masses of rocks, rubble or masonry held tightly together usually by wire mesh so as to form blocks or walls. Sometimes used (although not recommended) on heavy erosion coastal areas to retard wave action.

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Incident wave