Hypoxic Waters

Waters with a low concentration of oxygen.

Glossary of Terms

The current system characterised primarily by wave action in and near the breaker zone, and which consists of four parts: the shoreward mass transport of water; longshore currents; seaward return flow, including rip currents; and the longshore movement of the expanding heads of rip currents. See also nearshore circulation.

Refraction (of water waves)

The process by which the direction of a wave moving in shallow water at an angle to the contours is changed: the part of the wave advancing in shallower water moves more slowly than that part still advancing in deeper water, causing the wave crest to bend toward alignment with the underwater contours.

The bending of wave crests by currents.

Cusp

One of a series of short ridges on the foreshore separated by crescent-shaped troughs spaced at more or less regular intervals. Between these cusps are hollows. The cusps are spaced at somewhat uniform distances along beaches. They represent a combination of constructive and destructive processes.

Lost Beaches

Lost beaches lack a recreational beach, and lateral shoreline access is very difficult if not impossible.

Nearshore Circulation

The ocean circulation pattern composed of the nearshore currents and the coastal currents.

Uprush

The rush of water up the foreshore following the breaking of a wave, also called swash or run up.

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Hypoxic Waters